![]() If you only have a strong light to point at the screen, you should use a large 8×8 frame with a silk sheet for diffusion. This will give you an uneven light to shoot with. Such lights tend to have a hot spot, and you’ll find some gradient surrounding it. Pointing hard light sources-such as tungsten without diffusion-at the green screen will lead to poor quality results. Instead of moving things around, you can dim the lights a bit until you have the right levels. This is where dimmable bulbs come in handy. Moving the actors, lights, and cameras further away is usually the best solution to go with, but for a green screen in a small space, this is not always an option. The problem won’t be very pronounced for static shots, but it will become more visible with more motion in the video. When this happens, your shots will appear to have a bright green light from behind, giving an unnatural look. Directing too much light will cause a bounce off the sheet and onto the actor in the foreground. However, you need to exercise caution to avoid using too much light on the green screen. Lights dedicated to lighting the background are important for this process. ![]() If you don’t have enough space for these dimensions, try to maintain the distance ratio between the lights, wall, and camera as closely as possible. However, this is dependent on the scope of your wide-angle lens. Your camera should then be around 6 feet in front of your actor. You should also position your actor 3 feet in front of the lights so the light won’t mostly be on them. Your green screen light should ideally be 3+ feet away from the wall to avoid creating a spotlight effect. Both scenarios will give you a flat appearance, and the actor will get in the way of light meant for the green screen. Your green screen shouldn’t be too close to the wall, and the actor shouldn’t be directly in front of the wall. Proper lighting starts with making good use of the space you’ve got. Check for Exposure on the Camera Monitor.
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